Beach Culture

As you probably know, the most important part of Rio is the beach.  It spreads miles and miles along the stretch of the marvelous city, and it's really what makes Rio such a special place.  The sand is the softest you've ever dug your toes into, and the water is so clear that you can see the school of fish as they swim past your legs.  As you float in the warm water, you look around and see that you're surrounded by lush greenery and amazing mountains.  There truly is nothing like it...

But what intrigues me the most about Rio's beaches is the unique culture that comes with them.  First let's look at the type of people on the beach.  Who surrounds you on the sand depends on which beach you're at.  The beach Fred and I live on, Leme, is a laid back beach that is mostly comprised of our neighbors.  Sometimes there will be people from other parts of the country, but most of the time, it's a locals' spot.  Next to us is Copacabana, which is the tourist hot spot and gringo central.  There is also an elderly population on this beach, as Copa tends to be where the Old Money is.  Swing around Arpador and you'll get to Rio's most glamorous beach, Ipanema.  This is where the hottest of the hot take in the sun.  The women that make Rio famous (heck, the girl in the song WAS from Ipanema, right??) and the men that spend hours on their chiseled bodies frolick in Ipanema.  And then there is Leblon, which is a family beach. Sure there are beautiful people here too, but many have their little ones in tow.

When we go to the beach in the United States, we simply find a spot we like in the sand, throw down our towels, slap on the sunscreen, and lie there.  Women are careful to remove the straps of their bikinis so as to avoid tan lines, and will go as far as untying their tops while they are face down.  I have seen a few women forget about this when they stand up...quite funny.  We spend the day periodically rotating like rotisserie chicken to ensure that all spots get tanned  equally, and when we're bored, we take out a football and start a pick up game. 

In Rio, going to the beach has rules and regulations.  Over the course of the 7 months I have spent here in Rio, I have learned "how" to go to the beach.  So read on to see what a typical carioca does while sunning in the sand...

It's about 10am, so it's time to "schlep" the one block to our local beach :)  I put on my tiny bikini and a little flowered skirt that I bought on the beach.  I also put on large earrings and some chunky bracelets, as jewelry is quite fashionable on the beach.  I check my beach bag to make sure it has all of its contents: I have my canga, which is a large cotton sheet that resembles a magic carpet. I would NEVER bring a towel to the beach...only gringos lie on towels.  I have my frescoball racquets (the Brazilian version of Kadima), and my SPF 30 sunscreen.  I take 5 Reais (about $2) to pay for the beach chair and umbrella that I'll rent for the day, and another few Reais for the Matte Leao (cold sweet tea) and Globo biscoitos that I'll buy for a snack.

My Havaianas don't do much in the way of protecting my feet from the burning hot sand as I make my way to Posto 1.  We always sit in the same spot...a little to the left of the lifeguard tower.  This way our friends can find us when they come to meet us on the beach.  I spread my canga on my beach chair under the umbrella, and head for the water.  After a few minutes, I come out and immediately go for the hair brush to get the sand and tangles out of my hair.  Then, it's back to the beach chair under the umbrella until the sun weakens a bit.  Around 2pm,  I can spread my canga out and lie on the sand.  Tan lines are VERY desirable here, so I certainly don't untie my bikini top.  Of course, I reapply sunscreen, because sunburns are very UNdesirable!  After about an hour and some Matte,  Fred and I will play frescoball.  By "play," I mean I attempt to hit the ball to him and miss completely and he runs after it.  

Because I am now a Cariyorker (half Carioca, half New Yorker), I am much more comfortable in my little bikini.  I look around the beach and see that women of all shapes and sizes are donning the tiniest of bathing suits.  Here, women are proud of their curves.  And on the beach, there is NO flirting or advances by the opposite sex.  That happens later at the night club...but here, everyone is comfortable and friendly.  Sure, a guy can talk to a girl to see what she's up to later, but it's very uncarioca to hit on someone while at the beach. 

As the sun begins to set, we pack up our things and head back home.  It's been another beautiful Rio day and I look forward to my next beach trip...which will more than likely be the very next day :)

Inca Trail - Day 4: 12/12/08

Ok, so I am going to pick up where I left off...arriving at the Inca Trail.  I wrote it in my journal when I reached Machu Picchu, so it's wrought with emotion :)

3:45am wake up call.  10 minute breakfast of toast and tea.  All picked up and ready to roll at 4am.  Our goal:  to be first at the gate that opened onto the trail to the Inca mecca.  

We reached the gate at 4:15am and were behind one group.  Percy informed us that the trail to the last "holding pen" before Machu Picchu was narrow and each man was for himself.  As he put it, "it's anyone's game!"  And when the gate opened at 5:30, it was all about hauling ass to reach the top first.

As we were a rather competitive and athletic bunch, we of course decided to take all necessary measures to dominate those in front of us.  The wooden gate opened (and I swear I almost heard an announcer shout, "AND THEY'RE OFF!!!!").  Naturally, our Type A personalities were not well received by the leading team.  A large redheaded boy lumbered along in front of me, and as I warned him, "passing on the right," he stuck his hiking pole out to try and trip me!

Of course, in hindsight, there really was no reason for us to 1) wake up so damn early, 2) be 1st, 2nd, or even 10th in line, or 3) haul ass for 50 min to be the first at the top.  As exhilarating as it was to be the first ones at the top looking down into the valley of Machu Picchu, we all had to sit and wait until 6:30 to proceed down. 

As we began our descent from the top of the mountain into the misty valley, Percy pointed out where MP was situated...beneath a thick cloud cover rendering it invisible.  But then an amazing thing happened.  The clouds parted slightly, forming a perfectly circular opening over MP.  We all stood gaping in wonder...even Percy was amazed!  We were the first group down there and the ONLY ones there, which means that no other group had this miraculous experience we did.  And as quickly as they opened, the clouds merged again and covered the Lost City once more. 

We continued to descend into the valley where we got our first close up view of Machu Picchu.  You may have seen pictures in books, watched documentaries, or seen other people's photos.   But nothing can replicate the true beauty that is this Incan city.  But I must admit...while it was truly amazing to finally reach our goal, for me Machu Picchu was only a small sliver of an incredible experience.  The friends I made, the physical challenges I went through, and the exposure to a beautiful culture made this trip one of the most fantastic things I have ever done.

 

I've been a bad blogger :(

So I've kept this journal since I've been in Rio.  It's basically a compilation of ideas I have had for the blog...only half of which I have actually gotten around to writing about.  I wish I could say it was because I was SOOOOO busy that I couldn't find time to blog. But really, as a (mostly) unemployed, beach bumming New Yorker spending 7 months in A Cidade Maravilhosa, I have no good excuse. 

Now that I am leaving in less than a week, I have developed Blogger's Guilt.  I've done some great things, taken some beautiful pictures, and created memories to last a lifetime...and I've deprived my devoted readers of these experiences.  

In my defense, I must say that it is a ROYAL pain in the ass to upload pictures to this blog.  I mean, you'd think on a Mac it would take 2 minutes instead of, like, 2o.  

But, alas, I know that I will want to have this blog and these memories while they are fresh in my mind.  There is so much that Rio has shown me and I want to share it with you.  So, I am going to write up these posts now and be a good blogger again.  

ENJOY!